In Case You Missed It . . .
April 6th, 2012Last month, a moment that was important to American history got lost in the swirl of the usual economic doom saying, political punditry, celebrity worship: On November 1, President Obama signed a proclamation designating Fort Monroe in Hampton, Virginia, a national monument. It is not glamorous or sexy or controversial, but it is significant. Using his authority under the Antiquities Act, (Theodore Roosevelt used it in 1906 to establish America’s first national monument, Devil’s Tower in Wyoming) President Obama’s stroke of a pen not only protected the recently decommissioned fort and the land it sits on, but in the process of preserving the fort will bring the possibility of up to 3,000 jobs to the area and pouring millions of dollars into the local economy.
“. . . One of the great pleasures of this job, but also one of my responsibilities, is making sure that we are preserving our nation’s treasures so that they can be enjoyed by our children, our grandchildren, our great-grandchildren,” said the President before he signed the order. “ And over the years, over 100 sites have been set aside as national monuments — everything from the Statue of Liberty to the Grand Canyon….
“This is going to give an opportunity for people from all across the country to travel to Fort Monroe and trace the history that has been so important to making America what it is.”
Fort Monroe has the historic, if awful distinction, of “hosting” the first group of Africans in North America (individual Africans had come with the Spanish conquistadors as early as the fifteenth century). A Dutch ship’s captain dropped anchor in the harbor there in 1619 with several indentured African servants (the President said slaves; I am not going to quibble, indentured servants were often treated like slaves, the distinction being that years of indenture were finite). But the captain got picky, decided the site wasn’t adequate, collected some provisions and moved on to Jamestown. The Africans never got off the boat as far as can be ascertained.
In our Summer 2004 issue we took readers to Hampton to uncover its black history. One of the stops on our quest to reveal some surprising things about the port city, including the story about the Africans, was to our now newest national monument. Below is an excerpt from the article Surprising Hampton:
“We jump into a van for the short drive to Fort Monroe. Out the window to my left I see long stretches of green lawns, punctuated with piers reaching out to the bay and graceful white gazebos. This is the Buckroe Beach area. In 1897 a local entrepreneur opened a hotel, dancing pavilion, and amusement park here, all of which were off-limits to black people. So a local businessman named F. D. Banks, along with a few partners, promptly formed the Bay Shore Hotel Corporation. They raised $15,000 to buy property along the bay adjoining Buckroe Beach and built a top-notch resort for African-Americans. The hotel opened for business in 1898; by 1930 the Bay Shore Hotel, which began life as a four-room cottage, had grown to a three-story beach-front establishment with 70 rooms and long porches facing the water. The resort’s popularity waned some after a hurricane severely damaged the buildings in 1933, but big-name African-American entertainers, including Cab Calloway, Duke Ellington, Ella Fitzgerald, and Louis Armstrong, still performed there. The Bay Shore property was sold in 1977 to developers who tore down the original structures.
We cross the Mercury Boulevard bridge over the calm blue-brown waters of Mill Creek (which is really an inlet) to Fort Monroe. Well before the Civil War, 8 percent of Hampton’s sizable black population was free. Whites in Hampton believed in slavery but did not, as a rule, tolerate cruelty. In one instance, a slave ran away from a harsh master and stayed right in town, without ever being caught and returned. However well treated, though, slaves were still slaves, and as we found out at the fort, there would come a time when Hampton’s slaves would run away in droves.
Fort Monroe is the oldest fort in the United States to still be operated by the military. The cornerstone was laid in 1819, and it was garrisoned in 1823 though not completed until 1834. It is the largest stone fort in the country, and the only active one with a moat (three to four feet deep, eight feet deep at high tide). Crabs, jellyfish, and other critters live in its waters.
Across the moat, through the postern (back) gate into the fort, we enter the first of a series of low, arched stone-and-brick rooms. These form the Casemate Museum (a casemate is a chamber in the wall of a fort used for storage, living quarters, or positioning cannon). At Fort Monroe 32-pounder guns hind the fort’s other name, Freedom Fort.
It seems it all started in 1861, when three slaves sought haven here by swimming across the harbor from Sewell’s Point in Norfolk. They belonged to a Colonel Mallory, who demanded them back. But Maj. Gen. Benjamin Butler, who was in command, told Mallory that since Virginia was no longer a part of the Union (it along with 10 other states had seceded from the Union in 1860 and 1861 to form the Confederacy), it could no longer benefit from U.S. laws, which included the 1850 Fugitive Slave Law. Therefore, Major General Butler concluded, the slaves were “contraband” and did not have to be returned.
After Butler’s declaration, nearly 900 refugee slaves ran for the fort. When the Confederate military heard a rumor that the Union Army was going to quarter refugees along with soldiers in Hampton, it burned the town to the ground. One of the only buildings to survive was St. John’s, the church downtown with the lyrical bell. I recall it, and the words of the Confederate private that I read in the rotunda of the museum the day before: “As the smoke ascended to the heavens . . . I thought of how my little hometown was being made a sacrifice to the god of war.”
The ex-slaves did not just run to Fort Monroe and hide; many joined the Union Army. Three units of U.S. Colored Troops (the First and Second U.S. Cavalries and the Battery B Second U.S. Light Artillery) were formed at Fort Monroe; all three saw action in and around Hampton. And for a short time toward the end of the war, Harriet Tubman worked at the fort, as a nurse at the contraband hospital.
The drawing depicts the southern slaves fleeing to the sally port to enter into Fort Monroe to reach the freedom of the Union Army which occupied Fort Monroe during the Civil War.




